Lawn Mat

PRODUCT SPECS

• Models: Grass Protection Mesh (Various Grade Options)
  
• Size: Various
  

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PRODUCT HIGHLIGHTS

• Helps protect grass areas for turf damage
  
• Easy to install
  
• Permeable

Turf Staples - 500 Count

$255.71

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Product Downloads

• Standard Grade Spec Sheet
  
• Medium Grade Spec Sheet
• Heavy Grade Spec Sheet
• Slope Installation Guidelines

Case Studies

• Gervasi Vernyard Case Study (Standard Grade)
• National Case Studies (Standard Grade)
• North England Zoo Case Study (Standard Grade)
• Hayfields Golf Course Case Study (Standard Grade)
• Mountain Branch Case Study (Standard Grade)
• Racing Circuit Case Study (Standard Grade)
• Castle Hill Case Study (Heavy Grade)

Learn How And When To Install A New Lawn

Although lawns were around centuries ago, they have become a symbol of well-kept homes. Even though many people are concerned about the environment, lawns have remained a very important part of our culture and overall landscape. Lawns are an important part of a home's appearance.

Keeping a lawn in great shape can be hard work. Due to severe climates, abnormal rainfall, droughts, and numerous pests, many yards and lawns have fallen into neglect. But with some hard work and time, you can turn your shabby lawn into something fantastic! In this article, we will cover all the bases to help you create a lawn that will be admired and will add value to your home.

In many cases, lawns suffer from poor soil compaction, out-of-control weeds, or other natural deficiencies. If your lawn has become ragged, this might be the perfect time to start over. Even though it will take hard work, in the long run, it will last for a very long time. Many homeowners will choose to go with seeding while the alternative is laying down carpet sheets of grass which are normally 1-1/2 ft wide by 6 ft long.

In the North, sodding should be done in the spring or fall while sodding should be done in the spring in the South. Planting sod in warm weather will run the risk of burnout. Do Not plant sod after a month before the first fall frost. It needs time to establish roots before the cold weather hits.

Make Preparations

Making preparations can actually be the hardest part of sodding. If you are planning on a large lawn, you might want to do it in sections. You should start by taking care of the worst areas that are probably quite visible. You can always do other areas later on in the following year. This will help you manage the project and watering will be easier to do, especially if you do not have a sprinkler system.

If you do not know how to kill and remove the old lawn, there are several options. You can use a herbicide or use various equipment. In most cases, equipment is easier and the best way to tackle it because herbicides can harm your kids and pets. For larger lawns, you might consider renting out a sod cutter. It will cut under the grass so you can easily pull up strips of turf. The best time is when the lawn soil is still wet or moist.

For smaller lawns, a grape hoe often called a grub hoe is a great tool. If you are strong or have someone to help you get rid of chunks of turf, you can remove up to 300 sq. ft in an hour.

Once you are finished removing weeds and grass, you should contact your Cooperative Extension Service and get the soil tested. They will let you know where to send the sample. Once the soil is tested, they can give you recommendations regarding the modifications for the soil to help your new lawn. While waiting for the results, you could address existing grade issues.

The first step for grading, make sure the ground slopes away from your home in all directions and drops at least 2 or 3 inches for every 10 feet. The finished grade should be level with other installations in your yard such as walkways, patios, as well as areas that will not be replanted. When replanting seed, the grade should be one inch lower than other fixtures in the yard. If you are adding sod, the grade should be 2 inches lower than the other installations such as the walkway.

Removing old turf, grade the entire area with a wide landscaping rake. If you plan to add other improvements, you should go by the recommendations given to you from the soil test results. Be sure to till the soil at a depth of 6 inches. To create a firm surface for sod or seed, roll the area with a lawn roller that is approximately 1/3 filled with water. Continue rolling until you can walk on the surface.

Create your own turf-cutting tool by sharpening the edges of a mason's trowel with a metal file. To regrade an area, remove the topsoil from the area. Make adjustments to the subsoil by scraping down high areas and filling in low areas. Spread out 2 inches of saved topsoil over the subsoil then till the first 2 inches of the subsoil. It can prevent drainage issues between the two layers of soil. Lastly, spread the rest of the topsoil another 4 inches. Use a landscaping rake to work the topsoil to the correct grade. At this time, you can add fertilizer, organic matter, and lime or sulfur. Make sure the improvements are in accordance with the results from your soil test. Be sure the added materials are spread evenly then till to the top 6 inches of soil. Rake until the area is smooth. Remove any stones and vegetation on the surface during tilling. Once you are pleased with the results, water the ground and check for puddles. Once the soil is dry enough to be worked, move the soil from the higher spots to the lower spots. Roll the prepared soil, whether for seeding or sodding, to form a firm base. If seeds are planted too deeply, the plants could die before they make it to the surface.

Fill your lawn roller around 1/3 full with water and roll it until your footprints on that area are only ½ inch deep. To finish the preparations, water deeply for two days before planting.

Water each piece of sod after it has been installed. After each piece has been completely soaked, fit two pieces of sod together at an angle. Lay one piece over the other and cut both at the same time. Lift the top one and remove the waste below. When you go to the opposite side of your work area, add a row of sod next to your perimeter pieces. Roll out the next section which is almost the last row and cut the pieces to fit. Discard the waste or use it somewhere else to fill in gaps. Using your edging tool to trim curved edges or areas where the sod runs into other obstacles. Use your sharpened trowel to cut off excess soil where the pieces meet. Cut straight up and down for the best results.

You can also use your trowel to level small bumps and fill in depressions. After each piece of sod has been laid, soak it with water then move on to the next one. Using a straight board as a guide, make the last cut then discard the waste or use it to fill a gap.

Trim the curved edges where the sod sits by planting beds or other obstructions in the lawn with an edging tool. If you are working on a slope, place the sod at the lowest spot then work your way up. Stake each piece in three places to make sure there is no slipping. Use stakes that are approximately the size of a painter's stir stick. Then roll the sod with a 60 to 75-pound roller. When you are done, fill in any small gaps with fine soil. Finally, you must soak the soil around 6 to 8 inches deep.

Plant Seed

Administer a starter fertilizer with a ratio of 1:1:1 or 1:2:1 (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) to the surface but do not till. Spread the seeds you have at the rate recommended by the seed grower. The rates are usually in pounds per 1,000 sq ft. Perform a light raking to work the seeds into the topsoil at ½ inches.

Lightly roll with an empty roller for good contact between the seeds and the soil. Hopefully, you planned your watering requirements. Insufficient watering can lead to your lawn failing and too much water is not good either.

For sprinkler should be set to mist your newly seeded lawn surface 4 times a day starting at 7 am up to 6 pm.

At a depth of 1 to 2 inches, the seedbed should be moist but not soaked. The sod should be watered twice a day including one at midday. Once the sod has started new root growth, reduce watering to every second or third day for at least 2 weeks. once four weeks have passed, your lawn should be able to carry on for longer periods of time without water.

If the weather is warm or dry, spread a layer of straw. Choose clean mulching straw (such as wheat straw) and spread it at a rate of 50 to 80 pounds per 1,000 sq. ft. You can remove the mulch after germination. You can start mowing after the seeded lawn has grown to a height of 3 or 4 inches. You should mow with a reel mower but if you don't have one, use a rotary mower with the throttle set low. The first time, just remove between ½ to ¾ inch. The next time you mow, cut the maximum height recommended for your variety of grass but not more than 30% leaf length per mowing. Do not mow a sodded lawn for 10 days after installation and until the grass has started growing.

Cut back on foot traffic or other activities for at last 3 weeks. Do not apply fertilizer to new lawns for at least six weeks then apply a light fertilization of ½ pound of nitrogen per 1,000sq. ft.

Watering is critical for your lawn even after it appears established. Water twice a week in hot, dry weather and keep it up for 2 years. You want to ensure the soil is moist to the depth of its roots. If you stop watering during this time, you might discover you will have to start over by planting your lawn again.